Hello everyone,

My name is Lesley and I am quite new to the hat world, so I'm just feeling my way about and slowly learning.

I have my own small business (making cloth dolls believe it or not!) so I'm very comfortable with a sewing machine, or needle and thread. Although I adore these marvelous creations that are steamed and blocked, I don't have any blocks at the moment, and I wondered if you knew of any sewn hat patterns that might be suitable for someone like me (a person who can sew, but doesn't have a block!)  I have attached a couple of pictures of some styles that I like, and I wondered if any experts might be able to point me in the direction of where I can find some patterns to make something similar - a basic, simple shape that I can go to town on with decorations and embellishments!  I'm not too sure where to find actual patterns for hats that are pieced together and sewn, and I wondered if someone here might know?

I am plucking up the courage to buy a little button hat block to begin, and perhaps try the cocktail hat module available here at the Hat Academy...but its nerve-wracking to tackle new materials that I've never used before.  I guess I just need to jump in!  But in the meantime, I'd be so grateful for some advice on sewn hat patterns to get the milliner in me going!

Thank you ever so much,

Lesley x

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Hi Lesley and welcome!

This is a great place to be in the world of millinery and you can learn lots. Not sure if its any help but  I bough a book from Amazon: Sewn Hats Carla Hegeman Crim and there may be a couple in there to try?

Can I also recommend the lessons on here, I have done the cocktail lesson and it is very good!!

Before you 'invest and commit' to a hat block, search charity/thrift shops for a small wooden bowl that you could have a go at blocking on? Then if you get the 'bug' you can purchase a 'real' hat block:-)

Hope this helps!

That sounds great - thank you so much. I've just ordered it from Amazon, so I'll look forward to getting stuck into that.

I'll also have a rake around my kitchen cupboards and see if I can find anything 'block shaped'...I would have never thought of that before!

That has been very helpful - thanks again :) xxx

You're welcome, enjoy!

I have a couple more book recommendations!  Firstly, Karen Henriksen's 'Fashion Hats' is excellent. Some of the patterns do involve blocks, but there are also some great sewn hats and a section at the back on designing your own hat patterns:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fashion-Hats-Design-Karen-Henriksen/dp/0713...

 Also, I recently borrowed a book from the library called 'Hat Shop' by Suzanne Woods, which focuses on sewn patterns and had some pretty good ideas too:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hat-Shop-Practical-Fascinating-Collective/d...

 If you're feeling brave and want to have a go at blocking a hat, the Karen Henriksen book has very clear instructions on everything you need. You can always hire a basic block to use (the pillbox pattern just uses one rounded crown block) and see what you think.

 Happy making!

Beth.

etsy.com/shop/MmeBsBoutique

mmebblog.com

Thank you very much, I'll have a look at those too - you can never have too many books, that's what I think :D

I have ordered a small button hat block from ebay - its just little, so its not too scary, and I think it might be suitable for some simple cocktail hats.  I'll certainly show off anything that I make with it (though it will probably be like me showing a stick-man drawing to Rembrandt - everyone here's hats are so magnificent!)

Thank you once again for your recommendations,

Love Lesley x

If you are accustomed to sewing, you may surprise yourself with how quickly you learn to make your own patterns.  You can probably find some simple hat patterns through the typical pattern manufacturers like VOGUE, Simplicity etc.  That will give you an idea of shapes and pattern pieces.  From there play around with paper and fabric scraps until you learn to make variations and learn the mathmatical computations for pattern making. Once you have made a couple soft pattern hats, you will be ready to jump into buckram bases.

I make all my own patterns and find it liberating, plus I don't need to worry about being acused of stealing someone elses designs. :)  Good luck and just be fearless. 

 

 

I started with a Vogue 8309 and Butterick 3664.  Played around with them for a while, first with scraps of fabric that I had, and then invested in nice fabric and linings.  I also unpicked an old sun hat I had (liked the shape but it was shabby) and made a pattern from that.  Unpicking old hats is also a good way to learn how they fit together.  

That was my beginning and I think it was a really good one, as it gives the basis for how shapes work, how thet fit together, why a brim needs to be THAT shape, how to engineer that three dimensional shape from two dimensional fabric - and, as Bridget says, the 'matethematical computations'!  I've realised over time too how I learned the importance of precision in sizing and shaping as well - through making pattern hats first.   This is an important lesson!  

Oh, another book I've used, which gives some flat pattern techniques, as well as blocking, is:  Studio Secrets Millinery, By Estelle Ramousse & Fabien Gambrelle.  by Search Press.  

Also, if you can get your hands on a copy of an old 1920s millinery shop training manual used to train young millinery workers in hat making, you can learn a lot.  I have a couple I still refer to.

Ooooh, thank you so much everyone - that's really kind of you to help me out, I appreciate that so much.  I'll definitely take a look at all of those resources and see how I get along.

There is so much information out there that it can be a bit daunting and confusing to know where to begin, but I am trying to remind myself that its important to walk before I can run.  I have a book called 'Saturday Night Hat' which is nice and simple and has some fun designs in it, and I am hoping that even something with an easy construction can be made to look beautiful with the right embellishments.  I'll look forward to showing you what I come up with (and probably ask a hundred questions before I finish!)

Thank you once again so very much xx

I've got 'Saturday Night Hat' - it's great!

www.folkwear.com

#269 Metropolitan Hat
Women's Small, Medium, Large Hat Sizes. $12.95

This is my favorite purchased hat pattern.  You can really jazz it up and get a great vintage look.  It's easy-peasy.  Of course, this is modern pattern so you probably couldn't resell the hats you make from this pattern.  

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