Having seen a vintage cloche featuring a grosgrain nautilus cockade I want to make one. I can't find any instructions anywhere. A friend is sure she has seen some in a millinery book but can't remember which one.
Can anyone recommend a book that might help me? At the moment I am pleating up the grosgrain with a thread and then pinning it out onto a foam ball to get the right shape but I wondered if there are some tips out there to make it easier. I know it's probably just a variation of a plain round cockade but help would be appreciated.
I took class from Candace Kling and I have some info that can help you making a nautilus. Candace uses a pleating board and a porcupine quill. The pleating board she makes herself by cutting slats from card board and taping them to a flat board at maybe a quarter of an inch a part (you can play with this). Then, she lays the ribbon on top and pushes it into the slats using the porcupine quill. When she gets the ribbon into the pleater correctly, she uses a steam iron to set the ribbon with those pleats. Once removed, you just need to sew.
I hope that helps!
Good question. They're parallel - just like a regular pleater. But you reminded me of something I left out. She placed the ribbon into the pleater at an angle - like the top would start on the left side and angle down to the right. Then, when she machine sewed one side the ends - they would show that angle. This picture is a good example. The bottom edge is sewn together. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/71635450295984938/
I am terribly impressed with the nautilus you made without a pleater. I could barely create one in her class with help!
If you give me a couple of days, I am going to dig up some books that will help you. I think Candace didn't demonstrate some of these skills in her books because you can find instructions in some older books that are in reprint. I'll reply when I get the titles.
If you ever do come to the states you can look for her classes on her website here:
One more thing that might help - I have an album on Flickr where you can see the pleater and process for making the nautilus cockade. Some of these photos will help a lot.
Try this whilst waiting to find the book. https://youtu.be/a_duTQEydjI and also this blog on 18th century cockade http://blog.americanduchess.com/2010/04/how-to-make-18th-c-cockades...