Glossary

Beret    - Soft fabric or felt flat form which is worn tilted to one side. Often includes a Head band which sits firmly on head.
Bias         - The diagonal fold  or cut to allow the fabric to stretch
Blocks    - Used to shape hats Made from a range of Cedars/ Oaks/ balsa which can be penetrated with Millinery Tacks
Breton   -A style of brim that turns up all around the head- popular in 60's & suits clients with wide faces.
Boater   - Flat tip crown and very flat medium to wide Brim are features of this style of hat.
Brim        - The portion of Hat which frames & shades the face.
Buckram  - A woven cotton muslin pre-stiffened & used to make Crowns and Brims when covering with Fabric.

Capeline           - A straw or felt semi blocked crown & brim
Cloche               - A style of Brim worn post WW1- it is narrow but sits close to face & usually has a Dome Crown.
Crinolin             - A wide or narrow strip of woven polyester which usually has a cotton gathering thread on one side .Used for trims or blocked for Crowns & Brims
Crown              - The portion of hat which sits on the head

Dome               - A crown block which is shape of average head

Esparterie      - A willow & muslin component used for fabric covered Crowns & Brims. Requires stiffening.
Fedora             - Mannish style hat with central dip & dimples on each side. Very stylish as a Winter felt hat for ladies wear.
Felt                   - Refers to Felt Capeline or hood made using wool rather than fur. Coloured Toy felt is often acrylic but can be used for trims.
French Flower Making  - Technique to make silk flowers using heated brass headed tools
Fur Felt            - A felt Hood or Capeline made from rabbit Fur
Jinsin               -  Silk & sinamay interwoven buntal fabric, fine weave & stiffened for use in millinery, hats and fascinators
Grosgrain         -Ribbon used to bind & band a hat or used as a Sweat band inside hat. Also called Petersham & it must have picot edge to shape successfully.

Hood                - Small cone shape used to block Narrow Brimmed hats , Crowns & pillboxes in Straw or Felt.
Leno                 - Open Weave Canvas used to shape as a base for Fabric Covered Crowns & Brims.
Millinery Wire - A tensile wire used to stabilise the Brim edge Comes paper or cotton covered.

Parisisal            - Very light, fine woven Sisal straw in either hood or Capeline shape.
Pillbox              - Reminiscent of Jackie Kennedy era when she wore hers on the back of head. Today worn on side or front of head often includes veiling.
Rouleaux         - Bias strip which is seamed & inverted to form a tubing used in trims.
Semac             - A canvas used as a base for Fabric Covered pillboxes & hats
Toque             - Style popular during 30/40's era It hugs the head and is wider at top than head fitting.
Turban           - This style is created in various Cultures as a head wrap with specific rules in wrap process but Fashion now takes this item to a new level of creativity.

Work Station  - A ventilated cabinet with perspex window which ensures fume extraction when Stiffening & glueing. Australian WPH&S requirement.

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